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© 2005

The information on the Trans-Atlantic BikeShare web page is provided as a benefit to TABS members and our readers. The information is gathered from publications, interviews and personal experience. Because of the vast differences in regulations here and abroad, it is always prudent to seek out other opinions and advice. Although our goal is to be of as much assistance as possible, we disclaim any liability for the views expressed within the newsletter.

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It if fairly common for Tony and I to receive inquiries from people wanting to, “tour across America” on their BikeShare. Tony and I will be the first to tell you, it is well worth the trip. However, America is a BIG PLACE! For example, there are several states you can spend most of an entire day riding across. Tony and Shirley did this ride several years ago and I did it for the second time in 2004. On this trip I took the time to look at and assess some of the considerations for a trip like this from a BikeShare perspective.

As preparation for a U.S. Tour, you may want to join AAA, which is the American Automobile Association. (AAA) They do not do anything specifically for motorcycles, such as road service. As far as the AAA is concerned, we don't exist. However, with a nominal cost of membership, you have access to countless free items such as maps, Motel guides by state or region and camping guides. They can also put together a handy item called a trip-tik. They are a collection of detailed mini-map pages listing gas, food, lodging and directions. The trip-tiks are primarily based on the Interstate system and can be very hand in some of those wide open spaces out west. Additionally, many attractions, motels and other points of interest will offer you a discounted rate if you have a AAA membership. There are AAA offices all across the U.S. and you can drop in to any location to pick up more maps, books, make reservations and get information.

Another item I found handy on this trip was a GPS. It is not a requirement, but I found it great for projecting fuel stops (some can be very far apart in the western states) and navigating route changes etc…. If you think you want to use one, get it in advance, practice with it, learn how to use it and you will find it to be a nice tool.

DAY 1&2: Mason, Ohio to Thetford, Nebraska (Miles – 1,029)

When touring in the U.S. I find myself utilizing different type of days. For example one type of day I just call "Road Work." It is one of those days where I just need to get miles behind me to get where I want to be. The best way to get accomplish this is to get on the nearest most direct Interstate highway and go. The plan is start early to beat the heat, maintain a decent speed, stop as little as needed, stay hydrated and stay alert. On this trip my first day was one of those days. I set a course to Indianapolis, Urbana, Peoria and Galesburg, IL. The purpose of this was to get me to a place that was new to me a soon as possible. For me it is at this point the fun begins. In this case I made a bee-line for Galesburg, Illinois and jumped on to state route 34. This route paralleled the Interstate just to the south, but saved several miles of riding. The trade off of a state route, or old U.S. Route can be a good one. You don't go as fast, but take a shorter route and see some of old world America at the same time. As Interstates cut through a region, the old route become less desirable. Often, time passes these old routes by and the local communities freeze in time. These routes provide a great opportunity to see how Americans used to see the country. Often, the towns have fallen on hard times. I find it fascinating to look past the urban and economic blight to visualize a time when these towns were thriving centers of commerce built around the economy of the people that traveled these U.S. And state routes. Using this particular route (Iowa Rte. 34 to Nebraska) I crossed over on a small route with a small old bridge that still collected tolls. There was a friendly old man in a little white wooden shack collecting the money. This seems a bit amazing in 2004. On these secondary routes, you will comes across such things, but not on the Interstates. There is good news for your travels in Nebraska. The speed limit is 75. As big as Nebraska is, it feels like you are sitting still. The higher speed comes with a cost I suspect. At my gas stop in Grand Island I found a hole in the headlight lens about 10mm across. Even small rocks do more damage at the higher speeds..

I exited at Grand Island to connect up with Route #2. The map list this as a scenic route. AAA maps will denote scenic routes by placing dots ……….. along the route on a map. I generally find their idea of a scenic route to be accurate. Scenic does not always mean “breathtaking” but they are usually worthwhile. In Nebraska, scenic is a general term. It does take you through the very heart of Nebraska. I have a new respect for this state. RT 2 covers about 260 miles. Just about all roads that connect with this route are dirt roads. The route takes you through expansive farms for grain and cattle. It seems like you just ride and ride and ride to just crest a rise and see a narrow black ribbon of road vanishing over the horizon. I had to laugh as some things you cannot escape. I was riding along this route with nothing from horizon to horizon except the periodic farm or ranch house in the distance and what do I see, a road construction worker with a stop sign standing in the middle of the road. There I stood in the heart of an empty Nebraska with a stranger holding stop sign. It’s all part of the adventure!

Day 3: Thetford, Nebraska – Rapid City, South Dakota (Miles – 299)

The northwestern part of Nebraska was a cool windy morning ride of 125 miles across the sand hill region of Nebraska. I ate breakfast at Alliance and headed north for the state line and Rapid City, South Dakota. I didn't fill up with gas as figured I would be fine. Wrong.... Not long enough after leaving town the fuel light came on. I backed off the speed, coasted down hills and managed the throttle very carefully. According to the GPS I was going to be at my limit went I arrived at the next significant town. I assumed there might be a small gas station between the two towns. Wrong again! I made it and put 4.2 gallons in. I normally only go to 3.5 or 3.8. Keep this in mind as you ride in the U.S. There are places where gas and services are VERY far apart. This is where your AAA information and GPS can come in handy. When in doubt… fill it up.

Rapid City, South Dakota is a town that is very near to several points of interests for motorcyclists. The Mount Rushmore and Crazy Horse monuments are nearby as are the Black Hills. Sturgis, South Dakota is about an hour away and is the home to what is considered to be the most significant motorcycle gathering in north America. Rapid City has a lot of to offer in the way of services and accommodations. The downtown section hints of the old west and offers up some great places to dine.


Day – 4: Rapid City, SD - Livingston , MT (Miles – 446)

The next morning I headed northeast for Wyoming and then Montana. I choose route 212 from Spearfish, SD. The road seemed to have a good angle to it and it wasn't a boring interstate. It was good road, that went through absolutely open endless land. I saw small dear with dark faces and small horn like antlers. They were far enough from the road (most of the time) that I could enjoy them with out worrying that one might decide to hop a ride on the front of the bike. I stayed on this route to the Custer Battlefield. The last 6 miles of road was torn up and under construction. I road standing on the pegs to be able to miss holes and chatter bumps. It was starting to get hot as I stopped at the battlefield site. I arrived just in time to hear one of the national park rangers deliver a patented soliloquy about George Armstrong Custer’s last stand. Standing there where the soldiers fell you could understand the desperation of their situation in the park ranger’s voice. After years of being hunted by the U.S. army in the west, the day must have felt like a day of vindication for the Native American Indians.

I jumped on I-90 to make some time toward Billings. Along the way, I caught bits and pieces of storms. The sideways wind blasts were some of the strongest I've ridden through in a long time. Not much rain came out of the clouds as intimidating as they looked. Weather in this wide open country can be a little deceiving. You can see it from a long distance away. Often times you will watch storms that are 50+ miles away and never get to them. When you do, they can be intense as there are no natural barriers to protect you.

When considering a ride like this in the U.S. you should prepare for diverse riding conditions. You may find yourself on Interstate, small county roads, 105+° dry desert heat or cool damp coastal fog. The condition that catches many riders from outside of the U.S. by surprise is the high temperatures combines with very high humidity. For example, the dry desert heat did not effect me near as severely as the 90° heat with 80% humidity. This condition takes the energy right from you and can make for some very tiring riding conditions. Conditions like this are measured with what forecasters call a “heat Index.” A Heat Index is like a wind chill index in reverse. While the thermometer my say it is 90°, the humidity will cause it to feel like 110°. There are a couple of things you can do to deal with this.

• Get a “BC” early start to your day (“BC” – Before the chickens are up)
• End your day earlier than you might normally
• Hydrate yourself ( In the summer I often ride with a Personal hydration system such as a “Camelbak”) I have found this keeps me fresh and more alert. I fill it up with ice in the morning and it melts at a nice rate to provide cool refreshment for most of the day
• Ride with lighter, vented gear and carry a windstop type undergarment for the periodic cooler periods. Wearing your rain gear will help in a pinch

It had been a long day and I was fading fast, but I wanted to get a few miles closer to the turn off to Glacier National Park. As a reward for my extra effort I was treated to some wide long Montana valleys with rocky snow covered peaks to distract me from my tired aching body. To top the night off I found one of those great local diners that served up local cuisine and great atmosphere. I checked the GPS after dinner. Elevation 4,531.

Day – 5: Livingston, MT - Waterton, Alberta, Canada (Miles – 374)

It is deceiving once you start to approach the mountains. Visually, you will get the sense that you are riding in a valley. You are as there are mountains around you. With this in mind, the average elevation will be between 3500 and 4500 feet. I stopped in Helena, Montana for a Starbucks Coffee fill-up. I had about 40-50 miles left on the tank, I jumped on the Interstate without a fill up with a plan to fill up along the Interstate. You would think I would learn. At the exit there was absolutely nothing aside from a dead groundhog. According to the GPS, there was an intersection in about 20 miles, but there was nothing there. The fuel light didn't come on until about 177 miles, so that was in my favor as it is usually on at about 150 miles. During this trip I started refining my fill-up process by really working an extra 2-3 tenths of a gallon into the top of the tank. The GPS showed the next town to be about 17 miles away. I decided to go on and use the unleaded fuel from my cooking stove and poured it into the tank. I tucked in to minimize drag, held the throttle steady and coasted whenever I could. I filled up with 199 miles on the tank which I have never done before.

The last 50 miles of road to Waterton, Alberta, Canada was beautiful. Long sweeping turns over long rolling hills providing great vistas.

Day 6&7: Waterton, Alberta, Canada

A very common destination in the western united states is Glacier National Park in Wyoming. The most talked about feature is the “Going to the Sun Highway.” It is a road running east-west so depending on the time of day and direction you will feel like you are “going to the sun.” I came across what seems to be a well kept secret regarding this area. On the east side of the park you can ride north to Canada and near the border turn northwest toward Waterton Park, Alberta Canada. Waterton Park is the Canadian side of Glacier NP. I found it to be less traveled, more relaxed, if not more beautiful. For example, where else could you sit outside in a small town dining while a deer 10 feet away stands on the sidewalk staring at your salad. My initial attraction to the area was based on a picture I saw of the Prince of Wales Lodge. It sits on a precipice overlooking the small town of Waterton, Alberta. There is a full service campground in the town within walking distance of all town services, dining and the lodge. The weather is cooled by the glacier fed lake and the shade of the towering peaks around the town.

Day – 8: Waterton, Alberta, Canada - Polson, MT (Miles – 184)

After a great stay in Waterton it was time to work my way west toward the BMWMOA rally in Spokane, Washington. On this trip I tried a theory out that I had had for some time. By staying away from the interstates when possible, I would see more country and travel cheaper. This turned out to be the case. On the state routes in the small towns I was able to find decent independent motels and chain hotels for an average of $45 per night. My cheapest night was $30 in Missouri and the most expensive was $78 in Ottumwa, Iowa. I also travel with camping equipment. I find this makes the trip more of an adventure and can save you some cash along the way. I also find camping gives you the chance to meet more people along the way as the atmosphere is more conducive to meeting people. At the Waterton campground I met a few other riders on their way to the BMWMOA rally. At Waterton, I camped in the campground for about $15 U.S. per night and yet I was closer to all of the local offerings then the rooms at the Prince of Wales Lodge. At the BMWMOA rally I can stay right on the rally site, not fight traffic and live on my schedule. Another item I was able to try for the first time was a KOA “kampen Kabin.” These are small “log cabins” with beds, electric and a porch with the added bonus of a swing and a great view. The one I stayed in was about $50 per night, but I think the higher price was due to the resort area I was in. I’m sure a motel room in the area would have been $80 - $100 per night. Most KOA campgrounds have pools, laundries, stores and small restaurants. This one even offered free wireless internet

Day – 9: Polson, MT - Spokane, WA (BMWMOA rally site) (Miles – 205)

I had become spoiled by the cool dry weather I had experienced for the first 2,000 miles of my trip. As I crossed over the mountains on my way to Spokane, I could feel the temperature and the humidity rise. I couldn’t complain as the comfort Gods had watched over me nicely for the last week.

The BMWMMOA rally in Spokane was nice. There were several TABS members there and it has become like a family reunion of sorts. Even though it was quite warm, it always makes for a great few days of seminars, tire kicking and bike looking. The BMW riders at the rally are great to be with and even if you’re not on a BMW…. Well, it just doesn’t matter.

Day - 12 Spokane, WA - Tacoma, WA (Miles – 341)

RT 2 - across to Leavenworth, to Snohomish, to Tacoma

At the rally I met with several other TABS members and my cousin Scott Roberts. This would be Scott’s first rally. To set the mood Scott was welcomed to the BMWMOA rally about 10 p.m. by the volunteer night entrance security crew. To make sure he was not some type of “off-brand motorcycle terrorist” there to disrupt the rally, he was thoroughly scanned with a glowing rubber chick by big men in strange hats. Even though the chicken did light up and make some security alarm noises he was allowed to enter under a probation permit…… I assured Scott if he bought a BMW while he was there he would be off of his probation status. Unfortunately, Scott is still on probation.

During the few days there a loose plan was arrived at where Scott and I would meet up with Don and Joni Seiwert, #K219 on Oregon State Route 2 going west toward the Seattle area. The route was much like a micro trip across America. You start out near Spokane in the warm muggy air and ride west in to expansive endless farms that work fields of crops that vanish over every horizon. The landscape changes gradually as you approach the Coulee Dam and lake area. There you find yourself riding past a small example of the Grand Canyon with it’s majestic colors and tortured rockscape. After a quick fuel stop we continued our ride west toward Leavenworth, WA with rain clouds hanging low over the mountains in front of us. After working our way through cars of tourists coming into Leavenworth Scott and I found ourselves in…er….uh…. Bavaria? Leavenworth is a small town in the mountains that has a German flavor. In fact, it looked more German then Germany. At first we could not find Don and Joni so we went to plan “B.” Scott would head for a local bakery he knew. About the same time I saw Don’s R100RS go by so I moved up to catch him while Scott still had target fixation on getting a half dozen pies from the local bakery. After a little confusion, Scott appeared with a tank bag full of pies and we were off for a ride over the pass to Seattle which was packed with great roads, views and curves.

We worked our way down the mountain’s with a goal of stopping by Don and Joni’s house for a brief rest before Scott and I continued south to Tacoma. Upon arrival we were greeted by Douglas Wares, #K115 from Scotland. It was great to finally meet this true Scotsman. Douglas had just finished a ride through the Rocky Mountains with Joni’s father. From all accounts Douglas had a great ride and did his best to help out the economy of the western U.S.

We all had a few laughs and a great visit at Don and Joni’s before Scott and I had to make our way south to Tacoma. I was truly sad to leave as Don and Joni Seiwert have truly embraced the BikeShare concept and the spirit of the idea. Every time I meet them and other BikeShare members they re-charge my batteries about the TABS concept and riding in general. A big thanks to the TABS members at the rally,

As I mentioned earlier in this article I find my utilizing different types of days when I wide. Sometimes I just need to get some miles behind me to get to a new adventure. Other times my goal for the day is to just ride for the sake of riding on roads that offer up curves, scenery, points of interest and no defined destination. Days like this are the essence of a boondoggle in America. For me, days like this, are all about fun and no stress. If it rains, it rains, and nothing can really go wrong with your plans as… well… you have no plans….. You make it up as you go along. Naturally, you try to plan as many of these unplanned days in as you can. You goal is to ride where you choose, stop when you stop and ride until you feel like stopping for the day. Tomorrow will take care of itself. The ride from Spokane to Tacoma was one of those days. No absolute goals were set and we had a great time. The following day from Tacoma out to the Oregon coast was “planned” as another unplanned “Boondoggle” of a day.

Day – 13 Tacoma, WA - Newport, OR (Miles – 306)

The Seattle-Tacoma, Washington area reminded me very much of the San Francisco Bay area accept it was not as developed. On the ride from the Seiwert’s down to Tacoma Scott pointed out Mt. Rainier to the east. Even from a distance it loomed larger than life.

I arrived in Portland, Oregon in the late morning and turned west on route 6. Not the best pick as it was nothing but stop and go traffic for entirely too long. I would have better served by taking 26 west and then connecting up with 6 west of Portland. However, all was not lost as the ride for the last 50 miles to the town of Tillamook was very nice. As is typical with a ride along the coast highway you can tell how far you are from the coast by the change in temperature. As things had warmed up quite a bit leaving Portland the cool temperatures were just what I was looking for.

I followed U.S. 101 south with no particular destination in mind. On the coast highway, you’ll want to stop often, relax take pictures and enjoy this scenic road. You’ll find it a great road to meet other motorcyclists on also.

I decided to stop early enough to find a decent place to stay and do some laundry. As it would happen the end of my day was to be Newport, Oregon. This was one of those great laid back coastal towns. Tourism was the main stay of the local economy, however, it still offered up a decent room for $40 across the road from the beach.

Tomorrow would be an early day with the goal of reaching the bay area and staying with one of my cousins there.

Day – 14 Newport, OR - San Francisco, CA (Miles – 587)

This day was sort of a mix between a mileage day and a riding for fun. In this case I calculated I would need to cover close to 600 miles. However, there was not really an Interstate to use, so I would have to “suffer” through a day of riding the coast highway, riding through the Redwoods and the edge of California’s scenic wine country. The day started at 7:30 and ended at 11:00 p.m. 587 miles later. I was ready to vacate the seat of the K75 even though it had been a fun day of riding with great scenery and one great road after another. I never tire of riding in northern California.

Day - 15 San Francisco, CA - Morro Bay, CA (Miles – 260)

After a great, but quick visit, overnight with my cousin, I headed down the west side of the San Francisco Bay on the 880 toward San Jose, Gilroy and then on to Monterey Peninsula. This is the kind of ride that is typical of riding on the California coast. It was very pleasant in the Bay area, very hot an hour later in Gilroy, followed by very chilly temperatures 30 minutes later on the ride out to the coast.

I passed on through Monterey as I knew I would be visiting it later on my trip. I suggest that you do not skip a stay in this town with a visit to their world famous Aquarium followed with a bit of kayaking with the sea otters on Monterey Bay. When you ride south from Monterey and Carmel, you will enter some of the most dramatic riding along the coast highway. The coast highway clings to the California coast bluffs providing the visitor with great views, twisty roads and sensory overload at times.

I ended the day in Morro Bay which is best known for the giant monolith sitting just off shore in the bay. It was a foggy evening in a sleepy coastal town. I enjoyed an evening sitting on a street bench listening to live blues music pouring out of a local club. Ah….. the California coast…..

Day – 16 Morro Bay, CA – Mission Viejo, CA (Miles - 397)

Leslie, Kaitlyn and Kees were flying out to meet me in California. I had made arrangements to store the K75 for a few days at a friends house in Mission Viejo. Gary gave me a couple of suggestions for getting to his house and missing some traffic while enjoying a nice ride.

I left Morro Bay with a low fog hanging over the coast highway with a plan to arrive in the L.A. area outside of the rush hour traffic trap. Gary suggested I turn east on route 166 at Santa Maria to connect me with route 33 south over the mountains into the L.A. basin. This was a nice ride with 33 offering up views, curves and miles of fun dropping me unto the 101 just north of L.A. From there I would take the 405 south for the rest of the journey to Mission Viejo. Someone forgot to tell L.A. that it wasn’t rush hour at noon on a weekday. The 90 mile ride south took about 3 hours. As songwriter Randy Newman said, “I love L.A.!”

Day – 17 Mission Viejo, CA – Las Vegas, NV (Miles - 291)

With Leslie and the kids on their flight home to Cincinnati, Gary and I set about mounting a set of new tires on the K75. Gary helped by locating a local independent shop that had the tires I wanted. We dropped them off, had breakfast and planned our ride out of town.

By 11:00 Gary and I were headed toward the Ortega Highway (Hwy 74) over the costal mountains toward Lake Elsinore. As is typical with a ride over the costal range, the temperature and climate changed noticeably. Gary and I parted company after a fun ride across the Ortega. He headed home, I took a drink of water from my Camel Bak and headed north on Interstate 15 toward the heat of the desert and Las Vegas.

One of my primary reasons for mounting up new tires was to buy a little piece of mind while riding across the hot, empty desert. This ride starts with a long climb from Fontana California to Cajon pass which peaks out of 4,259 feet. After clearing the pass, the temperature began to rise on the road to Barstow. After a fill up of gas and water I left for the 130 mile ride through the desert heat to Las Vegas.

My first observation about riding in the desert heat was how dry the air is. Sure, it’s hot, but wow is it dry! As I approached Baker, CA which claims to be the home of the world’s largest thermometer I stopped to check the temperature. According to the 5 story gauge it was 105°. I was parked under a fuel stop cover and laid my hands on the front brake lever. It was warm to the touch as was the entire motorcycle from being in the sun while I was riding. In these temperatures you notice different things as a result of the intensity of the heat. For part of the ride, the left lane was newly paved and black in color instead of gray. When riding in that lane, the temperature was significantly higher as you could feel the heat rising from below you. Often, I ride with my visor slightly open on my full face helmet slightly open to circulate air. This was not possible when crossing the desert as it felt much like it does when you stick your head into a hot oven to check on a cake. Overall, it was hot, but not too uncomfortable. I came to the conclusion after the ride across the desert that the right riding gear, not less riding gear, could keep you cooler as long as you were moving.

After dinner at Wolfgang Puck’s in the Caesar’s Palace Forum Mall, I walked home at 11:15 p.m. It was 91°

Day – 18 Las Vegas, NV - Green River, UT (Miles - 481)

I tried to change the oil on this trip, but I never seemed to be in the right place at the right time. I thought for sure I could find a dealer in Las Vegas. As it I turned out there would be a dealer there in about two weeks…. With that notion I headed out across the desert for Utah. It was warm and so was I from riding in around Vegas looking for the dealer that didn’t exist. The scenery was interesting as it was very different from what I was used to. I could see a rain storm coming but I decided to not bother with rain gear this time. It rained, I got wet, the arid desert heat dried me out in about 10 minutes. It felt good and it washed the bugs and grime off of my jacket and boots.

On the advice of my friend Gary Johnson I took the exit that followed a back nice road to Zion National Park. It was a was fantastic. Zion was everything I N.P. is turned a little cool. The average altitude was about 5,000 ft. Often it was 6,000 - 7,000ft. One pass was near 10,000ft. It was deceiving as the terrain often made you feel you were in a valley or a canyon. I found this section of Utah to be probably the most impressive scenery of the trip. I gave the helmet video came a work out for the last 40 mile stretch. When you hear the term, “wide open spaces” you can think of the ride from southern Utah north to Green River. The colors on the desert landscape as the sun set are still burned into my mind.

Day – 18 Green River, UT - Calhan, KS (Miles - 418)

I made a real effort to get an early start as I new I wanted to cover some ground and do a few back road detours in Colorado. As it was our wedding anniversary I made it to Grand Junction to call Leslie to wish her happy anniversary. I made good time to Aspen where I had lunch. Aspen was pretty, but seemed pretty snooty. I enjoyed passing through as I had not been there since I was a kid. I little to upscale for my liking, but the dining options were nice. After lunch it was on to Independence pass at about 12,000 feet. It was pretty cool on top as it was clouding up to rain. Even with the fuel injection on the K75, the BMW was not happy about the sparse air. From there it was about 90 miles of back road to Colorado Springs with construction from time to time. The mountain valleys were beautiful, but as I wanted to try and make it into Kansas, I had to force myself to relax and enjoy the moment. I hit Colorado Springs about rush hour but it wasn't bad. I headed out of town on 24 east toward Limon, CO. I was originally going to take the route to Oakley, KS on U.S. 40. However, the route to Limon, CO seemed like a better way to get to I-70 and then hammer out a quick hundred miles before dark. However, The skies in that direction were ominous to say the least. I passed about a mile to the NW of a very heavy low hanging cloud. It looked very right for a tornado. It was windy and at times I encountered the same problem I had in Montana where a strong side wind would chatter me across the road. I was already going slow, so it wasn't too bad. However, that became the least of my problems. It began to rain harder and harder. Then I noticed the rain started to hurt. Oh, it's hail I thought. Then the hail got bigger and more plentiful. I had to pull over on the side of the road as it was too hard to see and ride. It begin to hail bigger and harder. I put the bike on the side stand and crouched down on the other side of the bike which was the downwind side of the hail storm. A girl pulled up in a truck and motioned for me to get in. I went and stood on the downwind side of the truck. By now the problem wasn't only getting hit by the hail, but walking. The road and shoulder were completely covered with marble sized hail about 2" deep. It was starting to let up, So I motioned for the girl to roll her window down. She opened her window to talk to me and was pelted with hailstones ricocheting off of my helmet and across the cab to the driver’s side. I told her I would be okay, I just needed to wait for the road to clear off a bit. It was dark as the clouds were thick and very low. That combined with the wind and hail and it was generally a mess. As I was out in the middle of no where I probably looked pretty sad. Another truck stopped and I told him I was just waiting for the road to clear off a bit. There were people waiting all up and down the road because the storm was so bad. About 3 miles up the road I came across a Days Inn. I signed in and checked on a local place to eat. The inn keeper called to make sure they were still open and offered me his car as it was still raining pretty hard. Nice people here in Kansas. What a wild ride!

Day – 20 8.5.04 Calhan, KS - Boonville, MO (Miles - 648)

Riding out toward I-70 that morning was the calm after the storm. Clear blue skies, and cool temperatures. As usual, there was a typical stiff Kansas side wind from the right all the way across Kansas. I got a good run going in spite of the wind. I forgot I had not filled up that morning, but had reset the trip meter to zero. The fuel light came on just as I passed an exit with a gas station. No problem, I just get the next one. However, that was a long ways off. I saw the sign for the exit with a BP just as the bike sputtered from low fuel. As the BP sign came into view, the bike sputtered again. As I got to the ramp it sputtered for a third time. I headed directly to the BP.

I did a pretty good job of staying in the saddle and racking up miles. However, I just didn’t seem to be making decent time. Part of this is mental as you can ride all….day……long…. and still be in Kansas. I hit Kansas City about 5 p.m. I filled up and decided to push on until dark. I ended up about half way across Missouri in Boonville in a motel that wasn't much of a place, but it was only $32.

Day – 21 Boonville, MO – Mason, Ohio (Miles - 522)

I knocked off a 100+ miles before a short breakfast stop. After that it was gas, ride, gas, ride, gas and home. I seemed to make very good time. I took the southern route from St. Louis to Evansville, to Louisville to Cincinnati. I don’t know that it is faster, but I like that route more and there seems to be less potential to get hung up in traffic. Naturally. Cincinnati greeted me with a 30 minute hold up in traffic and some guy in a Corvette nearly running me over. Ah….. it was good to be home.

The Great American Boondoggle
By: K200 - Tom Burklow