It was by coincidence that Gerry and Pat got to see California about the same time that I did. I found some of their observations interesting and quite amusing. I have spent much time in southern California over the past ten years and I guess I've gotten used to many of its characteristics. It seems that just when you don't think they can't get one more person in the LA area, they add another tract of houses and condos. I still enjoy seeing it from time to time. My favorite view of LA is the view you get from a departing airplane.
During a recent business trip I had arranged to borrow a Honda ST1100ABSII. I had been putting off riding an ST as I was afraid I would like it too much. Well, I should have put off riding it a bit longer. My plan was to ride from Torrance up the PCH to the San Francisco Bay area. In 1981 I rode from Ohio to LA and then up the PCH on a 750 Yamaha Seca after finishing college. It was to be sort of trip down memory lane.
After a couple of days running around LA and getting my lane splitting sea legs I was done with my meeting and ready to head north. One of the first places I passed was Malibu. From there I made a quick stop at Leo Carillo State Beach just south of Oxnard. On my 1981 ride I camped on the beach there. Actually, it was a lesson in how to stake down a tent on a beach with high winds. It only took two picnic tables, two rocks and a Yamaha to accomplish. As I was going to make the LA to San Francisco ride in a day, it was time to move on.
As Gerry mentioned the PCH wanders inland a bit from time to time. As you head north from Malibu to Santa Barbara it is generally 4 lanes with a great view. After Santa Barbara the PCH turns inland and heads to Lompoc. On this trip I split off onto the 101 to Santa Maria to make some time. It had been cool all week with morning temperatures in the 30s. I generally found it warmer along the coast. It got quite chilly going over the mountain towards Solvang. Solvang is a small Danish settlement. I spent a couple of days there a few years back. It is worth a stop for lunch. As it was still early in the day I opted for a coffee stop at the Buellton exit off of the 101 at "Thanks a Latte." A great place to take a break.
After my stop I stretched the thottle cables a bit on the ST on the way up to San Luis Obispo and Morro Bay. (I only engaged the traction control a couple of times ;-)) Morro Bay is best known for the large (and I do mean large) rock that sits in the bay. I made a stop here in 1981 and had some wonderful clam chowder while I watched a life size chess game. I was really starting to enjoy the ST and was anxious to get to the "real PCH." Morro Bay could also be called the southern gateway to the PCH. It is here I feel that you begin to see the PCH that you always see in pictures and hear about.
The coastal mountains slope gracefully down toward the shoreline where it flattens out before dropping off into the Pacific. At times it reminded me of the northwest coast of Scotland. The next town along the PCH is Cambria. A good place for a rest stop with a selection of cafes and shops. If you have any interest in clocks or watches, as I do, you'll find a first rate shop there with an honest to goodness watchmaker. I narrowly escaped with my credit card intact.
Shortly after leaving Cambria you will see the Hearst Castle at San Simeon. It is a unique place to see. On my ride I opted to sit on the beach and watch the sea lions sun bathe and bark out their territorial rights to each other. North of San Simeon the PCH begins to take on the look of a rugged coastline where the road seems to cling to the rocky, weather scarred cliffs. Over the past few winters the PCH has been pummeled by winter rains and winds. There is evidence of many completed repairs and others in progress as you ride along. The PCH really begins to twist, turn rise and fall as you ride toward Big Sur. It climbs up away from the Pacific giving, what at times seems like, an aerial view of the ocean and the coastline. Don't spend too much time enjoying the view while you're riding as the PCH demands much attention and does not afford much room for a mistake. The easy solution is to stop, listen to the seals and the surf while taking some pictures. (Go to the BikeShare pictures section to see "Me and the ST" south of Big Sur on the PCH)
As you approach Big Sur you will notice more trees working their way down the hillside toward the PCH. The air will cool and the fragrances change constantly. I camped here in 1981. I arrived late at night and pitched my tent next to what I thought was a very large boulder or small ridge. In the morning under the dim canopy of the great Redwoods, I realized it was not a boulder but a fallen redwood tree. The park service had simply cut a section out of the fallen trunk and put the narrow road through it. The cross section was probably over 10 feet high.
A short ride up the PCH from Big Sur is Point Sur. Point Sur has a light house sitting atop a rock that makes the Morro Bay rock look like a pebble. It was explained to me that the Morro Bay and Point Sur rocks are the remnants of volcanic vents that dot the California coast line. Shortly after passing Point Sur I arrived at the Monterey Peninsula. Monterey and Carmel are a destination of their own. You might take in a car or motorcycle race at the world famous Laguna Seca road course, knock some golf balls into the ocean at Pebble beach, visit the renown Monterey Bay Aquarium, cruise around "17 mile Drive", or stroll up Cannery Row. I made it from Torrance to the east bay area in ten and a half hours. Not the best way to see the PCH but still better than your best day at work.
The next day I headed for "the city." As usual, my timing was flawless as I timed my visit with a city wide power outage which wreaked havoc on the mass transit system. I still managed to accomplish my two goals of visiting a good friend and having lunch at the Stinking Rose. Can you say garlic with a capital "G"? At first it may not sound that appealing. However, they present a full selection of dishes on their menu. They just all happen to have a common ingredient...garlic. The added bonus is that it is one of the more, should we say, colorful parts of San Francisco. Don't miss it.
The Stinking Rose
325 Columbus Avenue
(415) PU-1-Rose
www.stinkingrose.com
What goes up , most come down. So as I went up the PCH, I need to return down the PCH. Prior to leaving on my trip I had contacted Bill and Phyllis Davies, #K221. My plan was to stop on the way back to LA and visit will Bill, Phyllis and Wes Armstrong, #K222. Believe it or not, Bill, Phyllis and Wes are the first group of members I've met in person. I met with Barry Romich, #K233 last year when he came through Cincinnati and I truly enjoyed that. I can see how our members can get hooked on more than just BikeSharing. The members I have met have all been interesting, easy going and great to visit with. I hate to break it to everyone but Tony and I didn't plan it to be this way. It just happened. Bill, Phyllis, Wes and I had a nice visit over a fantastic meal prepared by Phyllis. The downside was that my visit was just too short. Better hosts and conversation would be tough to find. We were so busy chatting I missed out on the hot tub. I'll have to request a raincheck as there is no better way to relax after a run down the PCH.
As Gerry mentioned, San Luis Obispo, CA is a wonderful place. Bill thought it would be worthwhile to mention that every Thursday night San Luis Obispo holds a street festival. It has been a part of the city for many years. Bill and I took a walk downtown after I arrived. If the aromas from the food are any indication, you won't be let down. It looked to have a great atmosphere and would provide you with a peek at the California lifestyle.
Friday morning was very cool, okay cold. I let the ST1100 do what an 1100, does best and headed toward LA After a quick return stop at Thanks A Latte'. I continued toward LA where, like Gerry, I too experienced the return to the gradient colored air of the LA basin.
Whether it is 1981 on a 750 Seca or 1998 on a Honda ST1100ABSII it doesn't really matter. The PCH is one of those roads everyone needs to ride on a motorcycle. I put it on that list of roads that a motorcyclist must ride to be able to say they've ridden some of the best roads there are to ride. PCH, don't miss it.
Pacific
Coast Highway
By:
K200 - Tom Burklow