We leave Muskego, WI (just outside Milwaukee) by 10 am for points west. We are staying at the house of Greg and Terri Martininch, #K216. It's delightful. On the lake, birds, waterskiing. Worth putting up with the winters for this (well almost). Greg's lending us his new BMW R1100 GS, his pride and joy, for a week of touring. We are off west to Iowa, Missouri and the like. Should be a lot of fun.

Well, Pat and I are on the road again and even though we have limited space on a motorbike, trust laptop is included in the luggage.

It’s great to hear from you all and keep ‘em coming, but sadly while on the road our ability to respond is severely limited due to AOL’s inadequate availability of access numbers. There is always their 1-800 access numbers which means that we don’t get charged for calls from motels but AOL still charges 70 cents per minute for the privilege. Outrageous!! Think I will write a letter to The Times.

Long correspondence will have to wait till the end of August when we return to London but meanwhile, the following will have to do!!

July 27, 1999

"LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION"
MUSKEGO, NEAR. MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN, USA

MARTINICH HOUSE JULY 99

The title is the only one applicable for this story. We are staying at Greg and Terri Martinich's’ house on the lake in Muskegon, just outside Milwaukee, Wisconsin.

They have, for Americans, a small three bedroom house on the lake (it’s a big house for us mere mortal Brits). They have lived here for 13 years and in that time, with a lot of work, have perfected it by adding rooms and decorating it very nicely. It is one of those houses where one can’t think of any more improvements to make.

There is a long garden to the lake, and at the bottom is the aluminium jetty with their moored pontoon boat. Party boat complete with flat carpeted floor is ready to go. At this time of the year the water is warm enough to swim in.

In the evenings one can see the other boaters having fun. The water skiers were out in force yesterday, practising their stunts for tomorrow’s evening’s show. There are ski jumps, team skiing, barefoot skiing and a host of other stunts they’re going to do.

Terri and Greg are really into gardening and it shows. Most Americans seem to be content with cutting the grass but in this garden, as well as the grass, there are a host of plants and fauna they’ve planted over the years. Don’t ask us what they are but they are very beautiful. Along the fence there are occupied bird houses and I found myself observing both parent birds relay feeding their young. The classic open beaks could be seen peeking out of the hole.

They’ve got a very good life here on the lake. Yes the winters are long and harsh, but sitting out here on the porch in July looking at all of this makes you think it’s all worthwhile. Mind you we haven’t been here in their long hard winter!

They have lived here a long time and ennui has settled in, certainly for Greg. They have been looking at other properties, which I think is a good thing as it has made them realise that this place would be hard to beat. Yes they are short on storage place (Americans have so much stuff!!) but nothing that a bit of reorganisation and chucking out won’t solve. They should leave the chucking out to Pat - she’s ruthless!

Greg of course, has two BMW motorbikes and a truck. Albeit one of the BMs is twenty years old but is in perfect condition and easily capable of touring. Greg has kindly entrusted us with his pride and joy, a two year old BMW R1100GS. God is it a cute but ugly duckling!

July 28, 1999.

Motel, On the Mississippi River. Border of Iowa and Wisconsin.

Well, we left Muskego at 10.00 am which is not bad for us. The journey was unremarkable in that we took the Interstate, "quick and dirty" we call highways/motorways. In this case there was no other logical choice. It gave Pat and me a chance to settle down with a new bike. Greg’s motorbike is a beast with manners, no doubt about it. After riding a 20 year old Goldwing for the last year this is like leaping into the 21st century. POWER!! Got to take it easy with that right hand (the throttle hand!!) or else we’d be zooming off at an illegal rate of knots. Don’t fancy being hauled in by gun toting cops when we’re nearly done with the year.

The US is suffering a heat wave at present. With current temperatures in the high 90s, it’s hard to imagine that Wisconsin has such long and hard winters. It is HOT, HOT, HOT. Over fifty people nationwide have died so far. We checked into the motel at 5.00 pm and gratefully slid into its cool air conditioned embrace.

July 29, 1999

Prairie du Chien to La Crosse, WI. (you can tell that the French were here)

On the Road on ‘The Hunt for the next Bed’

God is it ever hot!! 102F/40C plus, in the shade. The old and the sick in the US are dropping like flies. Bit of an exaggeration but it’s up to 60. This morning we left Prairie du Chien on the Mississippi early in order to go on a Mississippi riverboat for a spot of early morning gambling. The boat, ‘Miss Marquette’ is a modern version of the old paddle boats. It’s a dedicated gambling boat. It does a two hour cruise every morning leaving at 9.30 which is a tad early in our book for such activities. But there they all were, the grey rinse brigade, a'smokin and a'gamblin for all they were worth. The classic scenes of feeding two or more one armed bandits and collecting the occasional deluge of coins where everywhere. Pat did well. She played on one of the poker machines, was royally entertained for over 20 minutes and came out dead even. She sashayed up to the change counter and got her $10 right back. Bigtime gamblers us.

Then it was on up the road going north on the east, Wisconsin, side of the river. God it was hot on the road. Know we should be riding in full motorbike protective gear but what with the sun, the heat off the road, the heat off the bike there was no way. Pat’s very good and wears her helmet but I don’t even bother with that. Sun shining down on my now brown slaphead, dark glasses, t-shirt and shorts. Don’t even think about crashing!! The bike continues to impress as we get more used to it. Stonking power available at all speeds makes it a brilliant overtaker. Doing 60 and there are two cars ahead? Just pop down a gear and you are past them before you know it. It’s funny riding a basically unfaired bike at 80 mph in your t-shirt; your arms sting! I mentioned this to Pat and she said that she too noticed it. We could only figure that it’s the hairs on your arms whipping the skin! Weird but I guess we’ve never noticed it before because we never ride without a jacket. We generally cruise at 60 or less as we aren’t in a hurry to go anywhere but occasionally I like to let the beast have its head, otherwise you might as well be riding a scooter! Plus I’m a scardey cat as far as my licence goes. Had to do the ton of course, after all, 100 mph has a certain magic about it but the wind roar on one’s unhelmeted ears soon puts a stop to that. Either slow down or wear earplugs.

We wend our way up the wide Mississippi (always think of that song). At times it’s very wide, well over a mile, as in places this far north in the river they dam it and have locks. The banks are heavily forested with islands in the middle of the river. Pleasure boats are to be seen tied up along the banks. Stopped for lunch at a hunter’s bar in Ferryville (pop 154). They look pretty grim but actually the food is pretty good. Well, the homemade burgers are first rate. Last night we ate at a very undistinguished looking diner but were pleasantly surprised by the chicken stir fry; in Wisconsin of all places. It’s funny how the whole world is becoming so cosmopolitan even in the Heartland of America where are to be found chiropractors and the like.

Had a very short mileage day. The enervating heat means that you don’t want to ride in the mid to late afternoon. Find that motel (cheapest today at $30, yesterday $40, but both very clean and functional), dive in its air conditioned arms, have a shower and kip for a couple of hours and be ready and refreshed for the evening. We sure ain’t rugged riders; either that or we’re getting old(er). Don’t comment on that last sentence please. Be kind. Very impressed that the motels are geared up for motorbikes in this heat. The side and centre stands sink into the tarmac but they supply you with a metal plate to put under it. Excellent.

Being the cyber junkie that I am, it’s good to have the laptop with us which means that each day’s trip can be typed up (what’s pencil and paper?). Even though we can’t get a local AOL line it’s only 10 cents a minute (and not 70) to use their free phone number.

July 29, 1999

Just got back from a very good meal downtown. Funny riding in 80F in the evening. Hot like fire when you come out of the air conditioning.

July 30, 1999

WINONA/LA CROSSE, WI.

Could hardly get the urge to write the missive today. Pat wondered whether it was ‘writer’s block’ but more but more just a quiet day tourist wise.

Only did 80 miles today. It was a designated, stay at the same motel, sightseeing day, which, with the over 100F heat, is advisable, especially as the mid to late afternoon is the hottest part of the day.

We had a leisurely 10.30 am breakfast. Actually walked the two blocks to the diner. With these American breakfasts you only need to eat twice a day. We are having our annual egg/cholesterol intake on this holiday. We are mere tyros though compared to the older lady who had ribeye steak, eggs sunny side up, toast (but hold the butter!) followed by a fag (cigarette to you Americans).

Then it was northwards up on the westbank of the Mississippi on the Minnesota side. We had a really pleasant ride on a scenic route called Apple Blossom just out of La Crosse. This is the kind of sweeping, undulating route that makes you happy to be on a bike. It’s been our best bike day so far and well worth spurning the offer of the 5.2 litre V8 Dodge Dakota truck that Greg kindly offered us. We were tempted!! However the chance to ride a state of the art new BM proved irresistible and so far justified.

We toured an old flour mill in a small town (pop 140) called Pickwick. Back in the 1850’s the founder was a fan of Dickens. The mill went out of business in 1980 but is lovingly, and slowly, being restored by the locals.

By the time we got to Winona at 1.00 p.m. it was hotting up nicely. It was way too hot to walk around with temperatures over 100F. Wimps that we are we dived into the nearest air-conditioned bar for an hour and then went into a movie house to see the latest Will Smith offering, ‘Wild, wild West’. Entertaining pap. At least it wasn’t like a furnace when we got out.

And then it was back ‘home’ to our motel. Feels like home when you spend two nights in a place. Back in air condoo again, shower and out for dinner. Say one thing for Wisconsin, which surprises us, the food is good. Interesting, varied at times, exotic and far superior to Colorado sad to say. Tonight I had Jamaican jerk chicken which was pretty good. They also seem to eat later here and are not busting a gut (pun?) to get out by 8.00 pm. People were still coming in to eat at 9.00.

The weather is currently changing with cooler low pressure systems coming down from Canada. They are preceded by violent thunderstorms and torrential rain. We were very lucky in returning just before it struck. Five minutes later and we would have been drenched which wouldn’t have been too bad with this heat wave. We have jackets but no other foul weather gear. If we get wet, we get wet. Don’t even wear a helmet as one’s head would be as sweaty as a Yugoslav taxi driver’s armpit.

August 3, 1999

Sitting here on the porch in Muskego overlooking the lake and the ‘Perfect Life’ reflecting on how well the ordinary American is doing. They’re doing well as far as we can see. Yes we hear of and know intellectually that there are a lot of poor ones out there but where? We pass by the trailer parks (often referred to dispargingly as "Trailer Trash") but even a lot of those parks look well ordered and clean. What we haven’t done is to explore the large inner city areas (and why would we??) where most of the poverty (and ethnic population) live. The suburbs and countryside are remarkably devoid of ethnic groups. Funnily enough we saw quite a few of Korean descent in upper Wisconsin. I wonder who was the first Korean to settle there, and why? But they all followed. It makes you think why certain areas attract the first immigrants. Why did the first West Indians settle in Brixton and the Asians in Southall in London? Probably because of low rent or whatever but then they write to their mates telling them of where they found and what jobs they could get and bingo the rest of the village followed. It’s one theory anyway.

Here in Muskego life is good. Our friends Greg and Terri are very ordinary Americans with a lifestyle to die for. They are certainly not extravagant with their money, indeed they have very ordinary jobs of nurse and factory worker but they have most toys you’d ever want. He has his two motorbikes and his truck, she her car. Oh and there’s the boat on the jetty at the bottom of the garden. The house has had everything imaginable done to it and looks wonderful. They have good taste. They have extended it as far as they can but still have quibbles with the lack of storage space and are currently looking for a new house as a baby is expected and even with three bedrooms they would feel cramped once Junior arrives. They are going to struggle to find a house to top this and they know it. The hunt continues.

They also, unlike most Americans, indulge in long annual holidays. Not for them ‘Europe in 7 days’ but closer to three weeks. They borrowed our bike back in ‘95 and toured Europe in 16 days spending $4000. The following Spring after having saved $6000 each they were off Down Under for a few weeks. In addition to buying a new BMW motorbike for $8000, her car for $9000 and all for cash. They are canny folk and don’t believe in credit cards or debt if they can help it as the extortionate interest rates have no appeal. They are certainly different to their fellow Americans, many of whom are heavily in debt which is reflected by the many adverts offering ‘debt rescheduling’ services "You too can gather up all outstanding debts, re-finance it under one package and save money in monthly repayments!!" (then camera shot of smiling family with new car/boat/whatever up to their necks in debt rather than up to their nose - Hey we can breathe easier!) Statistics are coming out all the time which show that 60% of Americans are direct players in the Stock Market. Sounds like 1929 all over again. Many have sunk their pensions, savings and even kids college fees into stocks and shares. Gawd help em if the market nosedives.

The only downside for us is that they live in Wisconsin! From our travels this appears to be a highly agricultural state. If you’re into corn, more corn, farms and the like then this is the place for you. It is known as the Dairy state but that seems to be on past merit. To their chagrin, California has long surpassed Wisconsin in cheese production.

The scenery is so, - countryside. We crossed the state twice. Beginning in Muskego, a suburb of Milwaukee, then travelled east on the I 94 which was quick and brutal like all highways but at least it was only for an hour. We were looking forward to Madison but it was a disappointment. It is a university town with decor to match. It obviously revolves round student life with every down at heel apartment for student rent; and we know how students treat accommodation! The shops too reflect their clientele with cheap bars and restaurants serving a bohemian clientele. It has a certain charm but I guess I’m too old to appreciate it.

The Upper Mississippi was pleasant but we decided to check on what else Wisconsin had to offer so we headed eastwards to the other great attraction, Door County, a peninsula on the eastern, Lake Michigan coast. It was very pleasant and cute and worth a couple of days. We gave it one day. rices of hotels and motels certainly reflect its popularity and we were glad we didn’t stay there.

After six days on the bike we were happy to return to Greg and Terri’s in Muskego. Yes, I know, we are wimps. It will leave us one day to pack, wash clothes and be ready for tomorrow’s departure from here at 5.00 am!!! Eek!!

And that is finally it from gsamuel77@aol.com as after this message we are canceling the account. It’s been fun. Talk to you soon on gpsamuel@hotmail.com which quite a few are already using. Can’t think of anyone who doesn’t know of our new address!!

and finally..........................

August 21, 1999

We've only just got in after a VERY long flight. The plane was late out of Nassau to Miami which meant that we missed the connection to DC and then London. We were routed thru Chicago. In total it was a 21 hour flight with three planes. Ah well, we're here and everything looks exactily the same. The sun is shining, it's warm, the house looks good, the milkman's delivered two pints of milk, our neighbors Joey and Craig look good too and so does their new baby Scott, now 10 months old. Guess we should have a kip later on today and then be rested up for tomorrow. I will be contacting an ISP and will endeavour to get online asap. Till then I will be using our neighbours' infrequently.

Later,

Gerry and Pat