Ted (a Canadian born Englishman) wanted to visit his ancestral roots way up in Northern Saskatchewan not far from The Pass Manitoba. When we advised him it might take a week to get there and another to get back, he decided to join along with us on a trip to the BMW National Rally.

Ted and his wife Sue arrived in Toronto on Sat July 7th. On Sunday we all drove to the Ontario BMW Club Meeting, Ted and Sue for the first time on my blue K100RS my wife Irené on hers, and myself on the trusty Honda Aspencade. There they were able to mingle with and get to know some of the Ontario Club members before we all met up again at the Rally.

As we returned in a violent thunderstorm Ted and Sue were able to test their Frank Thomas boots, lucky we had them dried out again by the next morning. Lou Hale from Ottawa on his red K75 joined us to stay overnight, and early Monday morning we all left to on route to the BMW MOA National Rally in Morganton NC. Our route took us from Oshawa through one of the worst early morning traffic jams across Toronto that we have ever seen, then down to Buffalo for breakfast where the four of us met our sidecar team Peter & Nancy Cracknell. Pete, is a veteran BMW rider, while Nancy a relative newcomer to motorcycling prefers the luxury of a California Friendship II, this one attached to a snarling Kawasaki 1100. After a huge breakfast we gassed up and were on our way. Our destination for the first day was Altoona PA via some recommended twisties.

Taking 219 as far as Salamanca, then a combination of 417, 44, 6, then south on 144 gave us a super ride, stopping for a picnic lunch on route and ending at Altoona Super 8 a little later than planned. It was plain to see Ted and Sue were not used to riding this distance, but they didn’t complain.

The next day was a little more leisurely, Pete discovered that the Kawi was giving him a delicate oil mist spray from the head gasket so while he attended to the problem the rest of the party visited the site of the Johnstown Flood and met up with him later. That night we stayed over in Staunton VA taking advantage of our Seniors discount at the Hampton Inn, so that Tuesday we could enjoy a full day of riding on the Blue Ridge Parkway, a legendary ride for any motorcyclist. As it turned out the weather and scenery were perfect and our guests were thrilled. On route we met a Goldwing rider with an enormous tent trailer, he was carrying enough food to feed an army, bags of onions , potatoes pots and pans etc. were tied on everywhere more like a Tinkers Caravan. Wednesday we stayed overnight in Boone, but were not impressed. Leaving the motel we followed 181 right down into Morganton, the site of the Rally. We were hoping to link up with other BikeShare members at the Rally but unfortunately our schedules got crossed and it didn't happen. We went on some beautiful rides and sampled a variety of good food. At the end of the Rally we all said our farewells and Ted and Sue went on their own way for another week or more while we scurried back to return to work.

On August 30th Irené and I flew to Manchester for the return share. Ted was there to meet us at the Airport and within the hour we were in the village of Shelley North Yorkshire where he and his wife Sue had a new house looking out over the rolling countryside. To our amazement we found that Ted had gone out and bought a new K75LT, it must have been due to the fun he had with our K100RS.

On Sunday Sept. 2nd we loaded up his R80RT and I mean ‘loaded’, and set off across country for the Ferry from Hull to Rotterdam. Ted and Sue rode along on the K75 to make sure we arrived safely. The North Sea Ferry Terminal was efficient and very busy, mostly with Trucks and Buses, our cabin was comfortable and the sea crossing very calm. Prepaying the meals meant we didn’t have to wait and as usual, the all you can eat style buffet was superb.

Disembarking Monday morning was a mad rush, we had completely unloaded the bike and had to elbow our way through the crowd to get back to the car deck, guess who was last off. Customs and emigration formalities were minimal or non existent during most of our travels and the sun shone beautifully as we headed for the main road to Amsterdam. We decided to drive through to the north of the City and at about 10.30 am arrived in the village of Monnickendam on N247. It was easy to find Bed & Breakfast accommodation but be advised that some people require a 2 night stay, but we were lucky.

The house was one of a row, much like the terraced houses in England, quite small but with a surprisingly large bedroom, it must have had more rooms in the attic since they had 2 other guests. We managed to manouver the bike into the back yard, then took the bus to the City, an enjoyable, stress free 25 minute ride to downtown. Opposite the Railway station a sign post advised us it was only 5397 miles to Wall Drug South Dakota. Following some of Toms advice we took a boat cruise on the canals, a really worthwhile trip. We forgot what he said about the Red Light District so decided to investigate on foot, then to head back and see some more of the countryside and small villages. Once back to the bike we cruised around to the village of Marken for afternoon tea then on to Volendam for supper.

On Tuesday after a good nights sleep and leisurely breakfast we packed, thanked our hosts and were on our way. Holland’s roads were excellent and we were intrigued with its neat fields seperated by narrow ditches to keep in the sheep and cattle. Traveling north on N247 we joined E22 at Hoorn and continued to the Afsluitsdyjk. This 35 Km long dyke keeps back the North Sea. We stopped to take pictures and relax with a coffee in the warm morning sun. On our map, only the major roads had numbers, so we went a little astray but finally got to Leeuwarden and then to Groningen for lunch. Not long after we were crossing what was left of the border to Germany and on towards Hamburg.

We were now in Autobahn country, traffic was well behaved, Trucks kept to the right and to the speed limit, but even as we cruised along at 80 mph (130Km) some cars passed like a flash. The countryside was not so spectacular so we were able to cover the miles quickly. We stopped for gas and to look for somewhere to eat, also a place to stay. Just off the highway was a campsite, it was quite a menagerie with deer, peacocks geese, etc., etc. they had a cottage to rent and a restaurant, so we went for it, our first big meal was expensive but delicious.

The next morning, Wednesday, we were greeted by light rain, but before we had stopped for coffee it was finished. Soon we were in Lubeck and after a quick visit to the tourist bureau, to pick up a city map, we were off picking our way through little cobbled streets to find our lodgings, about 2 Km from the centre. We spent most of the day in Lubeck, one of the most picturesque old towns in northern Germany with striking Gateways and many tall church spires. The sun shone as we wandered up and down the old streets and along the river that night we retired early. The next morning, Thursday, we bade farewell to our host and soon were on our way to Puttgarden for the ferry to Denmark. This road was again fast but set up with speed traps to catch the unwary

At the ferry terminal we were met by a solitary Swedish rider on a Yamaha. Sigurd owned a Shell Station and invited us to stay at his house, but we had already planned to stay for at least 2 nights in Copenhagen. The ferry trip took only an hour and soon we were in Denmark on route to Wonderful Copenhagen with Sigurd riding along behind us. The road was good but sadly lacking in rest stops and Gas stations, and we nearly ran out of gas. Sigurd found a gas Station in a small village off the highway, it was fully automated but would only take cash. He showed us how to use the pump since instructions were not in English. It gave us 3/4 tank for 100 DKr which was about $20.

Approaching Copenhagen, the traffic got thicker and while I was looking for a place to stop, and have a coffee and say good-bye, Sigurd went by us and disappeared. We stopped and found that we were only a short distance from our planned destination. Smorumnedre is a small village to the east of Copenhagen. Here we met Birthe and Torben who were friends of our Danish friends in Oshawa. They had a neat little house with a large garden. We were made to feel just like part of the family as we all sat down to an evening meal.

Friday we breakfasted together and arranged to meet them by the Tivoli after they both finished work. It was a beautiful day and we had laundry to do. In Europe the washing is still hung out to dry, that done we walked though a wheat field to the railway station. You would not believe the number of bicycles all neatly parked under cover at the station. On the train there were even special cars where you could take your bicycle with you. The Main Station in Copenhagen is right across from the Tivoli and our first task was to find a money machine. Unlike the bank machines in Holland and Germany the ones here didn't like any of our cards so we ended up having the go into a bank to get an advance. The weather again was perfect so we strolled along towards the departure point for the canal tours. Once out on the water it was quite cool and windy, the canals being more open than in Amsterdam. We followed this with lunch in the market area and then more strolling with a visit to the museum. Meeting Birthe and Torben as arranged we walked with them through the city spending a restful hour at an organ recital in the Cathedral Helligaandskirken. Afterwards we continued wandering through the streets and ended in a small restaurant serving Mexican food, this was a first for Birthe and Torben. We couldn't leave Copenhagen without a visit to the Erotica Museum which we stumbled on while window shopping. The day ended with the train ride back to Smorum' followed by a relaxing hour or so sipping various liqueurs and listening to some delightful choral music, what could be nicer.

Saturday breakfast was followed by some leisurely packing, then waiting for Torbin to return with some Danish Pastries. We finally said our good-byes and set off just after midday. Heading north we got to the ferry at Helsingoer, once on board I dropped the bike key down inside the fairing and it completely disappeared, trying to locate it using a flashlight and peering down at an angle through trifocals was useless, luckily a couple of young German riders behind us were able to retrieve it.

The ferry was crowded with Swedes hauling cheaper Danish beer back to Sweden. The trip was only 25 mins and soon we were on our way again, deciding to deviate from the original plan and take up Sigurds kind offer. The last time I drove in Sweden was 1964 when they drove on the left, the same as England. The weather was cold and windy but the road was straight and clear, and Irené agreed to drive, so we soon ate up the 120 or so kms on E4 towards Vänarmo. Irené was bombing along and went right past the 27 cutoff, but we turned back and pulled into a Swedish MacDonalds for a snack. From there it was just a short way to Sigurd's Garage in Forsheda on 27 north, but when we arrived he had closed up and gone. We surprised him in a nearby restaurant and he gave us a tour to the nearest bank machine then around the local area, the town park, Chair designer Bruno Mathesons show room, then to a wild Collectors park where there was something of everything, airplanes, (a Vickers Viscount), tanks, you name it he had at least one. Returning to his house we sipped beer and schnapps ate sandwiches and sat up most of the night to watch Canada beat Sweden in the world hockey series.

Sunday was again fine but quite cool. we awoke quite late as you might expect, said our good-byes gassed up and continued on cross country to join E6 at Uddevalla. The road across Sweden undulated through farmlands and forest much like here in Canada. The coastal highway to Norway was only two lanes very twisty, and quite slow, however we found ourselves on the outskirts of Oslo by about 4.30pm. Oslo is served by a number of toll Ring roads, luckily for us motorcycles were exempted. In the downtown section E 18 runs in tunnels carved through the rock complete with signals directions and branches, we just hoped for the best and followed the route to Centrum. The weather was cool with threatening clouds and within a few minutes it was raining. At the City centre we met a young couple in a car and followed them through a heavy downpour to the village of Stabeck where we were able to dry off and enjoy a typical Norwegian Supper at the Stabeck Kro (Pub). Knowing the cost of hotels in that area we opted for Bogstad Camping and spent our first night in a tourist Hutte. Although very expensive ($120.00) it was warm and we were able to watch TV.

Next morning was Monday, there was heavy frost over everything and we were glad not to be camping. Our visit to Sigurd in Sweden put our original schedule back by a day so we ate breakfast at the camp restaurant then took off to the local shopping centre where we wandered round for an hour or so. Irené was able to buy a few Nordic notions and some knitting patterns. Deciding not to go to the city we spent the morning in beautiful sunshine wandering through the Norsk Folkemuseum on the Bygdøy peninsula.

Leaving after midday we headed west then north through a tunnel 1200 metres long on E16 to Hønefoss, stopping at a wayside Kro for lunch. From Hønefoss we headed north to Fagernes. From there we took 51 across the Jotenheimen Mountain range to Lom, our next planned stop. This road turned out to be almost deserted for about 100Kms or 60 miles with just a few mountain huts with grass growing on the roofs along the way. The tree line had gone and we encountered the first blowing snow as we reached the top of the pass, just after Bygdin. It was a strange road, one section, although 4600 ft above sea level, was both straight and almost level for more than 8 km or 5 miles. It was about 7.00pm when we reached Lom and we quickly checked in to our cabin then walked down to the village for supper. We were unlucky with the cash machines and none of the smaller restaurants would take credit cards. Fortunately the campground had a splendid little cafeteria and came up with a homemade pizza plus some wine all of which, along with our breakfast, we were able to charge.

The next day Tuesday was cool with some early drizzle, by the time we finished breakfast the weather was clearer. Our campground was the centre for the Norwegian Ski teams summer school and there were about 30 or more skiers staying in the motel and other cabins. At about 8.30 we took the bike with, no luggage, to go for a ride up the mountain road from Galdesand to Juvasshytta, a mountain lodge near the Glacier on the highest mountain in Norway. The toll road was 13 Km long and went up to 1830 Metres or just over 6000ft. As we neared the top there were snow flurries and the final stretch was partially snow covered, yes and this was our summer holiday. We enjoyed a well deserved coffee in the cafeteria leaving the bike parked outside on the snow. We went about another Km to the bottom of the ski lift to get some pictures before turning to go back down. Luckily the bike behaved perfectly and we negotiated all the washboarded hairpin bends with hardly a slip. Once back to the campground we loaded up all our gear, paid our bill and were on our way. The bank was open so we were able to get some Krone, this had to be done via a credit card advance as our bank cards would not work. We left Lom on # 15 to Stryn, again towards the top of the pass it started to snow, since it was time for lunch we stopped at the summit and went in to the warmth of the restaurant. As were leaving a couple of cyclists with camping gear came in.

Turning off # 15 at Grotli we headed for Geiranger. This was narrow twisty road with no room for mistakes. In good weather the decent into Geiranger provides some of the most spectacular scenery ever, we were able to get some pictures but the view down on to the fjord was not clear due to the rain. We waited an hour for the ferry along with 4 other motorcycles and their riders. The trip down the fjord to Hellesylt took about an hour, and the normally spectacular views were marred by the weather but nonetheless we took some pictures. The evening sky was impressive as we took #60 then #15 towards Stryn. There were more farms as we traveled along the valley, on the seaward side of the mountains. Stryn was a picturesque town nestled between the mountain peaks, the campsite was neat and clean with luxurious cabins, ours having 2 separate bedrooms would have slept 6 adults and also had a full bathroom with shower. After looking around for a suitable restaurant and finding most of them closed we were directed to Petes Kro, a swift 1 Km walk to the end of the town. This depleted our Krones so we tried our luck with another machine and this one, Kristiana Bank, responded. On the way back passing a food store we decided to buy a few items for next days lunch. That proved to be a wise move since nothing opened the next day until 9.30 and we ended up having our lunch for breakfast.

Wednesday morning we left Stryn at 9.00am. It was raining with temperature of only 9º C. as we headed out on #60 towards Forde, stopping in Byrkjelo to gain some inner warmth with a cup of coffee. Joining #1 the road followed along the shores of the fjords as we made our way to Forde for a welcome lunch stop and another warm-up. Continuing south towards Sognefjord we turned onto #610, a smaller mountain road with a warning sign Road Open. we soon joined up with #513 which took us up to 1210 M or 4000 ft and yes you guessed it, it was snowing most of the way with about an inch of the stuff all over the road at the summit. On seeing the road Irené instructed me to turn back, but I went temporarily deaf as we continued on down the other side only stopping once to take a picture looking back up the road to the top. Luckily it didn’t take long to reach Dragsvik where we had booked a Hotel room for the night. On arrival mid afternoon we were both cold and tired and were glad to have the comfort of a warm room and the various hotel amenities. Soon after our arrival a Dutch couple pulled in on a Honda 650 then a German lad on a BMW so we were able to swap stories, and addresses for future reference. The next morning was bright and sunny, breakfast was included in the price of the room, and we quickly packed, said good-bye and headed for the ferry.

This was our last ferry and it took us across the Sognefjord on our way to Voss and Bergen. There were still many ups and downs but this time instead of snow we had sunshine. The road from Voss to Bergen passes through many tunnels, none of them are lit and in one of them we thought we were being devoured by some unseen monster, only to find that the roar came from a train in an adjacent tunnel. In another there was an array of flashing lights which turned out to be routine maintenance, there was no advanced warning, just like home.

We stopped for lunch in a little town called Dale. The Chef in the Cafe offered us some specialty dumplings then invited Irené to inspect his kitchen. As we left he directed us to the Factory Outlet where we were able to buy Genuine Dale Sweaters. We managed to rearrange our load to include our purchases then carried on down in to Bergen which is a picturesque coastal town with a unique fish market.

Our Color Line Ferry to Newcastle was due to leave at 5:00pm so we had little time to explore. We were the only Motorcyclists on board, the embarkation was nowhere near as organized as the North Sea line nor was our cabin to the same standard, but the ferry was well run and the food was good if expensive. The voyage from Bergen to Newcastle takes 27 Hours 6 of which are spent going down the coast between thousands of islands and calling at Haugersund then by 11:00pm into Stavanger which was lit up like a picture. This was just like taking a Mini Cruise and was a wonderful way to finish the holiday. The following day at breakfast, a rather fussy English lady sitting opposite began by telling us of all her travels, pointed out to me that the large dollop of Marmalade I had on my plate was in fact touching the array of cold cuts, something I gathered which abhorred her. In reply I advised her not to worry since I would probably spread it over everything later. She wrinkled her nose profusely when I proffered her a piece from the assortment of raw pickled herring on my plate, and promptly left the table. Her husband remained and struck up a conversation with us.

Crossing the North sea was uneventful even with some heavy breakers and after a day of lounging in the sun we arrived at Tyneside with castle ruins on the hill to our right as we edged towards the docks. Disembarkation was more orderly than in Rotterdam and soon we were on the maze of motorway going in various directions out of Newcastle. We had made reservations at a Travelodge #310 in Washington which was just 6 miles south of Newcastle on the south bound M1 and had instructions how to get there (you can see it from the M1), it should have taken about 15 minutes maximum. Needless to say there are no bill boards as we have in North America, to show the exit, and the fact that it was now a Granada Inn not Travelodge didn’t help. By this time it was getting dark and cold. Having missed it on our first pass going south on M1 we stopped for more instructions. After two more different sets of instructions, in a foul mood, I phoned Ted Gray, he leapt away from the phone, then he came back and calmed me down by telling me we would find the motel at the Granada Service area, (you can see it from the M1), we made an about turn and headed back north. Actually seeing it from where we stopped at the Granada Gas Station on the northbound M1, where we received our last instruction, didn’t help much either, since it was on the south bound side. It still took another half hour plus about 15 miles and 4 U turns before we finally arrived. You were right, it was Friday 13th and no I didn’t explode but almost. Upon checking in I expressed my dismay at the name change and the agony it had caused us and was rewarded with a £2.00 voucher which we applied against our £15.00 supper at the Little Chef Gourmet Cafe next door.

The next morning the sun was shining again and all the frustration of the previous day was behind us. We headed south on M1 to Scotch corner where Ted and Sue met us and guided us back across the Yorkshire Moors through some beautiful twisty roads and over to spend a brief visit with my brother in Ramsbottom Lancs. We could not stay long as out return flight left on Sunday at 6:30am, and we had to be up by 3:30am.

This had been our first taste of BikeShare and it turned out to be First Class, Ted and Sue looked after us and although we spent only a few hours with them we are sure to maintain communications. Looking ahead, this year our Daughter is getting married in June so we have no real plans for ourselves, however we are willing to entertain any members who would like to visit our part of the world. Next year we are thinking of a Tour of Eastern Canada, taking our camping gear or staying in Motels depending on the weather with a tentative itinerary. Feel free to come and join us.