During
the past couple of months I had the good fortune to do some riding
down south. I truly enjoy riding in the south, with the exception
of the heat. I traveled to West Virginia, Kentucky, Tennessee
and Mississippi. This was the first time a member of my family
had been to Mississippi in quite a while. The last time a member
of the Burklow family was in Mississippi it was my Great-Great
Grandfather. During that visit, which lasted about 4 years, he
spent most of his time lobbing artillery shells at the natives.
In Ohio we refer to that period in our history as the "Civil
War." In the south it is known as that period of the "Northern
Aggression." I suspect there are differing viewpoints on
this time period in our country’s history. This time, I
left the cannonballs at home and took my BMW K75.
I was looking forward to this trip as it would add one more
state to my motorcycling collection and it would also afford
me the opportunity to ride the Natchez Trace Parkway also known
locally as "The Trace." The Trace is a trade route
that has been used since the earliest time of our nation’s
history. It was originally used by the Indians as a trade route.
Later it became a vital route for military troops in the War
of 1812 and the Civil War. My GGGG-grandfather Isaac van Burkelow
traveled this route on the way to the Battle of New Orleans
where he was wounded. In the Civil War his great-grandson James
William Burklow would spend most of the Civil War along the
Trace.
The northern end of the Trace starts just south of Nashville,
Tennessee. From there it heads southwest toward Tupelo, Mississippi,
the birthplace of Elvis Presley. This portion of the Trace Parkway
starts in the rolling hills of Tennessee and begins to flatten
out as you ride closer to Tupelo. The surroundings are very
rural without a commercial building in sight. That would include
gas stations, so plan ahead for your gas stops as you will probably
have to ride 5 — 10 miles from the parkway for gas. As
you ride along the trace things look very much as they probably
looked over the past 200 years. I saw armadillos, wild turkeys,
deer and several birds of prey each day on the parkway. My ride
on the Trace parkway ended up in Kociusko, which makes the claim
of being the geographical center of the state. That fact including
Kociusko being the birthplace of Opra Winfrey covers everything
you need to know about Kociusko, Mississippi. (Pron: Kahzee-OOZE-Koo)
I would have liked to have seen more period or historical buildings
on my ride. With the exception of French Camp there were miles
of bean, corn and hay fields. Not that this is bad, but, once
you’ve seen 30 miles of corn, beans and hay you’ve
seen 300 miles of corn, beans and hay. I’ve spoken with
other riders who have traveled further south on the parkway
to its end in Natchez, Mississippi. They said the southern part
of the Trace Parkway was very nice and offered up a variety
of scenery.
For me the Trace Parkway was sort of a family visit. Over the
last couple of hundred years two of my grand fathers traveled
the Trace while fighting for their country. One made a stop
at French Camp, on his way to the battle of New Orleans, while
another fought at Brice’s crossroads near Tupelo. Fortunately
for me, my most dangerous encounter was the occasional bounding
deer or armadillo. Even though the Trace Parkway doesn’t
offer up the same kind of vistas as the Blue Ridge parkway,
it is still a scenic road worth seeing. If you want a nice glimpse
of the south and you’re in the region, change your compass
heading for a day or two.
Of course the south has more to offer than the Natchez Trace
Parkway. Southern culture plays a big part in the experience.
I have always found it easy to tell when I am in the south.
First of all, every small town has some sort of "World
Famous" local barbecue ribs restaurant owned by some famous
person I’ve never heard of. You can smell the ribs cooking
as you roll into town and there is nothing like it. Also, when
ordering iced tea you get "sweet tea." It comes out
sounding more like "swate tay." Basically it is a
glass of iced tea with a half pound of sugar mixed in. Your
first sampling will most likely lock your jaws into their present
position.
The language in the south reminds me of Scotland in many ways.
You are in an English speaking country, and yet you feel you
are divided by a common language. Having moved north 10 years
ago I found myself really having to listen to make sure I could
"translate" properly. The pace is much slower in the
south and that is an attraction into itself.