After a couple of days running around LA and getting my lane
splitting sea legs I was done with my meeting and ready to head
north. One of the first places I passed was Malibu. From there
I made a quick stop at Leo Carillo State Beach just south of
Oxnard. On my 1981 ride I camped on the beach there. Actually,
it was a lesson in how to stake down a tent on a beach with
high winds. It only took two picnic tables, two rocks and a
Yamaha to accomplish. As I was going to make the LA to San Francisco
ride in a day, it was time to move on.
As Gerry mentioned the PCH wanders inland a bit from time to
time. As you head north from Malibu to Santa Barbara it is generally
4 lanes with a great view. After Santa Barbara the PCH turns
inland and heads to Lompoc. On this trip I split off onto the
101 to Santa Maria to make some time. It had been cool all week
with morning temperatures in the 30s. I generally found it warmer
along the coast. It got quite chilly going over the mountain
towards Solvang. Solvang is a small Danish settlement. I spent
a couple of days there a few years back. It is worth a stop
for lunch. As it was still early in the day I opted for a coffee
stop at the Buellton exit off of the 101 at "Thanks a Latte."
A great place to take a break.
After my stop I stretched the thottle cables a bit on the ST
on the way up to San Luis Obispo and Morro Bay. (I only engaged
the traction control a couple of times ;-)) Morro Bay is best
known for the large (and I do mean large) rock that sits in
the bay. I made a stop here in 1981 and had some wonderful clam
chowder while I watched a life size chess game. I was really
starting to enjoy the ST and was anxious to get to the "real
PCH." Morro Bay could also be called the southern gateway
to the PCH. It is here I feel that you begin to see the PCH
that you always see in pictures and hear about.
The coastal mountains slope gracefully down toward the shoreline
where it flattens out before dropping off into the Pacific.
At times it reminded me of the northwest coast of Scotland.
The next town along the PCH is Cambria. A good place for a rest
stop with a selection of cafes and shops. If you have any interest
in clocks or watches, as I do, you'll find a first rate shop
there with an honest to goodness watchmaker. I narrowly escaped
with my credit card intact.
Shortly after leaving Cambria you will see the Hearst Castle
at San Simeon. It is a unique place to see. On my ride I opted
to sit on the beach and watch the sea lions sun bathe and bark
out their territorial rights to each other. North of San Simeon
the PCH begins to take on the look of a rugged coastline where
the road seems to cling to the rocky, weather scarred cliffs.
Over the past few winters the PCH has been pummeled by winter
rains and winds. There is evidence of many completed repairs
and others in progress as you ride along. The PCH really begins
to twist, turn rise and fall as you ride toward Big Sur. It
climbs up away from the Pacific giving, what at times seems
like, an aerial view of the ocean and the coastline. Don't spend
too much time enjoying the view while you're riding as the PCH
demands much attention and does not afford much room for a mistake.
The easy solution is to stop, listen to the seals and the surf
while taking some pictures. (Go to the BikeShare pictures section
to see "Me and the ST" south of Big Sur on the PCH)
As you approach Big Sur you will notice more trees working
their way down the hillside toward the PCH. The air will cool
and the fragrances change constantly. I camped here in 1981.
I arrived late at night and pitched my tent next to what I thought
was a very large boulder or small ridge. In the morning under
the dim canopy of the great Redwoods, I realized it was not
a boulder but a fallen redwood tree. The park service had simply
cut a section out of the fallen trunk and put the narrow road
through it. The cross section was probably over 10 feet high.
A short ride up the PCH from Big Sur is Point Sur. Point Sur
has a light house sitting atop a rock that makes the Morro Bay
rock look like a pebble. It was explained to me that the Morro
Bay and Point Sur rocks are the remnants of volcanic vents that
dot the California coast line. Shortly after passing Point Sur
I arrived at the Monterey Peninsula. Monterey and Carmel are
a destination of their own. You might take in a car or motorcycle
race at the world famous Laguna Seca road course, knock some
golf balls into the ocean at Pebble beach, visit the renown
Monterey Bay Aquarium, cruise around "17 mile Drive",
or stroll up Cannery Row. I made it from Torrance to the east
bay area in ten and a half hours. Not the best way to see the
PCH but still better than your best day at work.
The next day I headed for "the city." As usual, my
timing was flawless as I timed my visit with a city wide power
outage which wreaked havoc on the mass transit system. I still
managed to accomplish my two goals of visiting a good friend
and having lunch at the Stinking Rose. Can you say garlic with
a capital "G"? At first it may not sound that appealing.
However, they present a full selection of dishes on their menu.
They just all happen to have a common ingredient...garlic. The
added bonus is that it is one of the more, should we say, colorful
parts of San Francisco. Don't miss it.
The Stinking Rose
325 Columbus Avenue
(415) PU-1-Rose
www.stinkingrose.com
What goes up , most come down. So as I went up the PCH, I need
to return down the PCH. Prior to leaving on my trip I had contacted
Bill and Phyllis Davies, #K221. My plan was
to stop on the way back to LA and visit will Bill, Phyllis and
Wes Armstrong, #K222. Believe it or not, Bill,
Phyllis and Wes are the first group of members I've met in person.
I met with Barry Romich, #K233 last year when
he came through Cincinnati and I truly enjoyed that. I can see
how our members can get hooked on more than just BikeSharing.
The members I have met have all been interesting, easy going
and great to visit with. I hate to break it to everyone but
Tony and I didn't plan it to be this way. It just happened.
Bill, Phyllis, Wes and I had a nice visit over a fantastic meal
prepared by Phyllis. The downside was that my visit was just
too short. Better hosts and conversation would be tough to find.
We were so busy chatting I missed out on the hot tub. I'll have
to request a raincheck as there is no better way to relax after
a run down the PCH.
As Gerry mentioned, San Luis Obispo, CA is a wonderful place.
Bill thought it would be worthwhile to mention that every Thursday
night San Luis Obispo holds a street festival. It has been a
part of the city for many years. Bill and I took a walk downtown
after I arrived. If the aromas from the food are any indication,
you won't be let down. It looked to have a great atmosphere
and would provide you with a peek at the California lifestyle.
Friday morning was very cool, okay cold. I let the ST1100 do
what an 1100, does best and headed toward LA After a quick return
stop at Thanks A Latte'. I continued toward LA where, like Gerry,
I too experienced the return to the gradient colored air of
the LA basin.
Whether it is 1981 on a 750 Seca or 1998 on a Honda ST1100ABSII
it doesn't really matter. The PCH is one of those roads everyone
needs to ride on a motorcycle. I put it on that list of roads
that a motorcyclist must ride to be able to say they've ridden
some of the best roads there are to ride. PCH, don't miss it.
